Michel Drappier has managed winemaking at his family’s venerable firm since 1979 while his father still oversees the vineyards. They continue a tradition of their ancestors who began cultivating vines in Urville, a little town Southwest of Paris over two hundred years ago. The firm is quite proud of the fact that President de Gaulle favored their product, he retired very near Urville. I don’t know how astute the man was in matters of the vine, but in Drappier it is quite clear that he picked a winner. In any case, the history of this spot is illustrious, and goes back long before de Gaulle.
The hills above the Urville are covered with vineyards. They may have been so since the Romans arrived two thousand years ago. However, the “modern” history of the Urville cellars, now managed by the Drappier family, began in the year 1116 (less than one thousand years ago). In that year, Saint Bernard made his way from Burgundy to this spot, reorganized the already ancient vineyards, and constructed cellars. He may have brought with him the predecessors of the now noble grape, pinot noir. The wine of his time was still, not sparkling. A thriving market for barrels of “Vins de Bar” was readily served by shipping North and West along the rivers feeding the Seine. This gave access to Paris and beyond. Winemaking in Urville flourished for centuries, but no ancestor of the Drappier family arrived until 1803, when Francois began working a vineyard which was the first piece of today’s 125 acres of grapes. So, the family enterprise we so enjoy today is a “mere” two hundred years old.
Today the firm is dedicated to the production of premium sparkling Champagne. Further, Drappier specializes in Pinot Noir which is uniquely suited to the stony sloped vineyards in and around Urville. Some Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier make their way into certain of the blends, and tiny amounts of more ancient grapes add interest to the portfolio, but Pinot Noir dominates the great Champagnes of Drappier we so happily offer. Our current features are:
Champagne Drappier Brut “Carte d’Or” $41.99 This is a house trademark created in 1952. Generally about 90% Pinot Noir, this wine has a deeper color and heavier texture than many of Champagne’s famous brut cuvees. Tiny amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier add a bit of zest to the initial taste of Drappier Carte d’Or, but the wine has the depth and character of a Blanc de Noirs. There is a very light touch of dosage, with the tiniest touch of an aged, sweet reserve added when the wine has finished bottle aging in the cellars. If you have never tried Drappier, start with this one. A little bolder and drier than most, Carte d’Or makes a perfect toast before or after dinner. It has enough body and finish to serve with most meals.
Champagne Drappier Brut Nature $47.99 A rather rare bird this one, a Champagne with no sweetening dosage at all. 100% Pinot Noir with a distinct body and serious crisp finish. All of Drappier’s products are extremely low in free sulfur, but this one comes very close to being totally sulfur free. The experience of sipping Drappier Brut Nature is for the purist who can revel in the wine’s natural bold character. Deeper, richer, and more bold than most Champagnes, this is the ultimate Brut. The copper-gold color of this wine hints at its ability to stand up to food, if you don’t drink it all before you get to the table.
Champagne Drappier Brut Rosé $47.99 Again, 100% Pinot Noir, but this time a portion of the cuvee is given significant fermentation on the skins. This is Rosé from the start (in contrast to many other Champagne Rosés which are essentially normal Champagnes seasoned with a bit of red wine). This is a personal favorite which shimmers in the glass at the beginning of a festive evening, or graces the table throughout a light but elegant meal. As dry as any normal Brut Champagne, this is a dessert wine only if one just can’t stop with the Champagne at the end of dinner.
|