Rosé, right out of the picnic hamper, served without ceremony in tumblers or even paper cups. Rosé, served in casual stemware, with cold ham and cheese and baseball on the radio. Rosé, dressed up in elegant Riedel crystal, with Sunday brunch and all the trimmings. –There must be a place for Rosé in your life.
The era of “blush” wine may be fading into the mist, but fine Rosé is again having its day in the sun. Rosé was so out of favor a few years ago that most U.S. producers refused to use the word “Rosé” on a wine label. “White” Zinfandel or “White” Merlot may have almost literally flooded the U.S. market but nobody wanted to label their wine “Rosé”. We have gotten over that. Most of the world never had to. In France, for example, if the weather gets hot, you drink Rosé.
Just about every traditional red wine region has its Rosé. Bordeaux, the Rhone, Tuscany, Rioja, and even Burgundy all have important Rosé products. Many producers can’t help themselves from wanting to make Rosé. Winemaker’s get hot and thirsty too! Now, with the stigma erased and the market waiting, importers and domestic producers alike are highlighting Rosé wines. Of course, most of the best examples have long traditions and are hardly passing fashions.
The south of France is still the king of quality rosé. The red wines of the South are heavy, potent, and often high in alcohol. Much of the cuisine of the area is not friendly to white wine. So of course, the common choice for summertime drinking is Rosé. Provence Rosé leads the way. Although cheap (not necessarily poor quality) Provence Rosé abounds, we feature two excellent (and not so cheap) examples.
Domaines Ott’s “Les Domaniers” Rosé ($19.99) is a modestly priced premium Rosé from the most famous Rosé producer of all. This is a traditional Provencal blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah fermented dry but retaining the aromatics of fresh fruit (perhaps apricot) with elements of spice. This great dinner-time Rosé will add a touch of elegance to savory summer meals.
Domaine Houchart’s Sainte Victoire Rosé ($16.99) is a stunning wine of similar composition and style (with just a bit more robust taste). The vineyards are at the foot of Mount Sainte Victoire, a spectacular site made famous by the artist Cézanne. The wine is as beautiful as the place.
Château d'Aqueria’s Tavel Rosé($16.99) is the prototypical example from the Rhone region of Tavel, an appellation totally devoted to Rosé of the highest order. Here the addition of highly aromatic white grapes adds zest and complexity to the blend. Tavel is one of the great traditional wines of France.
La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Ventoux Rosé ($9.99) is not estate bottled, as are all the others mentioned here, but it is fresh, light, reliable, and inexpensive. This Rhone region neighbor to Tavel and other Cotes du Rhones seems just right for cookouts and casual drinking. It is dry but easy-going.
Le Rosé de Paveil, Bordeaux ($15.99) is from one of our favorite estates in Margaux, Paveil de Luze. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot combine to yield an almost bone dry mixture of strawberry and herbal flavors. Bordeaux offers many “shippers blends” of reasonable quality, but this is an estate bottled gem, a most genial and adaptable summertime wine.
Champagne Drappier Brut Rosé ($47.99) is 100% Pinot Noir fermented partially on the skins to obtain a beautiful (but variable) salmon color and a glorious, dry, red-fruit taste. A true Rosé from the beginning, rather than a traditional Champagne blend, this is the Rosé to drink on all occasions great or small.
05/09 |